Castillo de la Duquesa

This 18th century castle (only a few minutes from my place) was built as a barracks for the military of the day. When I first visited it, forty years ago, it housed 13 families. Several families would share a living space, just separated from their neighbours by a simple curtain.

All around the site there was was an important Roman settlement and bath house. The industry was fishing, and making the popular fish paste - Garrum. The jar below is said to be a Garrum jar. The site is in the process of being excavated. In the castle there is a Museum of Archaology to house many of the 'finds'; pottery, glass, jewelery, fishhooks, etc. Now the Castle is used for cultural events; lectures, concerts, and as a wedding venue.

The Castillo also has a Museum of Fencing, which it is defined as swordmanship in general. With this broad definition, it is possible to include the weapons used in cave paintings - and certainly King Arthur's sword Excaliber.

Collecting salt off the rocks

The beach next to Bahia Dorada is crowned with a powerful square tower; the Torre de la Sal. Literally, it means the Salt Tower. Sea spray collects in crevaces and hollows. When dry, small amounts of pure salt can be scooped up. I'm doing it (rather inelegantly) in this photo!


The beach has pebbles of many interesting shapes and colours. Its impossible to walk along the shore without picking up a few curiosities! There are not many shells; a few little green sea urchins and some battered oyster shells. Just occasionally I find a gorgeous ormer! This is a type of abalone, with seven holes down one side, and a pearly iridescent lining. The question is; why do bi-valves have such showy linings? When the creature is alive the lining would never be seen, so what is their survival value?

The Cave - of Cueva De La Pileta

This cave is near Benaojan, about 70 kilometers from Bahia Dorada - through wonderfully wild mountain scenery. I've wanted to explore it for years. This week I did so for the first time! There are many steep steps up to the cave entrance, and inside the cave, so people with heart or agility problems are advised not to attempt to visit it. Once inside, Tilly lamps are lit and the group follows a guide who speaks in Spanish and English.

The Cave is most famous for a large depiction of a fish - which is most unusual in cave paintings.

The cave has Paleolithic and Neolithic paintings of animal and human forms, and many abstract lines and patterns, whose meaning is still open to interpretation. Carbon dating was possible as animal fat was used in making the 'paints'. There are two small lakes, with water that was once fresh enough to drink. (Now, coins dropped into them has spoiled its purity.) Many pottery shards can also be seen in the cave.

The postcard on the left distinctly shows the 'Pregnant mare' and a goat. Some people think the lines like a comb may be some sort of moon calendar. What of those circles with dots inside?

Roman ruins; Baleo Caudia

The Roman ruins of Baleo Claudia near Tarifa, are in a stunning position beside a long sandy beach. Before going there check opening times, which vary with the seasons; and use a map and follow signposts carefully. The car park is beside the museum.

The most important industry of Baleo Claudio was garrum; a highly prized fish paste, that was exported all over the Roman Empire! Near the beach there are many large tanks cut into the rock in which the garrum was made. Salt and herbs were pounded together with the fish.

After visiting the ruins, enjoy eating at one of the delightful beachside restaurants nearby; stroll along the sands or have a swim. This place is only about an hour from my place! Or stop over at one of the nearby camp grounds or in a hostal or hotel in Zahara.

There are beaches, and beautiful beaches!

Many Mediteranean beaches have artificially dredged sand. Those without this luxury can have more stones and shingle. The best beaches are on the Atlantic coast about an hour from my place. This rock is at Atlantera, and the long sandy beach stretches to Zahara del Tunes. However, there is more wind on the Atlantic coast! The nearby town of Tarifa capitalises on it boasting that it is the 'windsurfing capital of the world! There are kite surfing schools too!

For those who want to spend more than an afternoon in this area, accomodation of all sorts is available; hotels, hostels and camp grounds with good facilities. However, many places are only open in the 'season', not year round. Other interesting places to visit nearby include wonderful Roman ruins - Baleo Claudia. More about that later!

Jimena de la Frontera - the past

Andalucian towns and villages are often built on solid rocky mountains, on which it would be impossible to dig graves, so the cemetaries consist of white walls with niches, like this one at Jimena de la Frontera. They are beautifully cared for, with bright flowers and perhaps a photo. The effect is dazzling; quite different from the gloomy churchyards often found elsewhere.

The castle seen through the gates and in close up on the right can be freely explored. There are a few notices to indicate its Roman origins and Moorish development. There are wonderful views of the village from above, and over the unspoiled forests. Another good place for bird watchers.

If you want to stay for a while there are hostals and small hotels in the town, and an excellent Camp ground just outside it.

My Love of Special Places in Spain

These Roman baths are off the typical tourist beat, in a hidden valley, along a very bumpy pot-holed road. The spring that feeds them runs year round with sulphur in the water which gives it the blue colour. It is said that the water has been used for healing since Roman times. The water runs into a stream outside - still pale blue.

This delightful place is less than half an hour from my rental property! However, as there is not much parking space, I avoid going there at weekends.