Belen (Nativity Scenes) in Chocolate

It is traditional in Spain to make elaborate Nativity Scenes in town centres, shops and homes. They are called 'Belen', literally; Bethlehem. A couple of hours from here, in the small town of Ruta there is a chocolate factory, with an enormous Belen made entirely of chocolate. Photography is difficult as more light would create heat, which would melt the chocolate! Everything is chocolate - the houses and people, the palm trees and the sheep under them!




It is fascinating! Apart from the stable tableau that one would expect to find, the activities of the whole town town are shown in great detail. Paving is made with thin slabs of dark chocolate. The figures are in white chocolate. The vegetable plot has cabbages and carrot tops! Among the market stalls you can find the butcher with his selection of meats, and the cloth merchant with his bolts of colourful materials.

The Ruta chocolate factory has a shop where replicas of many Belen items can be bought, as well as other Spanish Christmas sweets and specialities. Watch out for the liquer cherries; potent and delicious!

What happens to the Belen in the end? It is divided up among local children.

Chocolate and Churros

This is one of the most delicious treats to have in the morning! Choose one of the chorros shops in Estepona where they squeeze the dough through a huge piping nozzle and fry it in hot oil. When golden brown the whole spiral is lifted out with what looks like a pair of huge chopsticks, and is snipped into long pieces with scissors. (Beware of being served the little hooped ones, as they may well be out of a deep frozen packet and taste anaemic!) You can dip the lovely crisp churros in coffee, but I prefer them coated with hot thick chocolate! They are probably full of calories, but I enjoy this decadent pleasure once in a while! Life is for LIVING!

Romeria to El Rocio

During the Moorish occupation of Spain (8th-15th Century) the statues of the Virgin Mary were hidden in attics, cellars and caves. Over the centuries their hiding places were forgotten. But occasionally they were found!

The story goes that during the 15th century in the Coto Donana area of Andalucia a man found an ancient carved wooden Virgin, hidden in a hollow tree. He decided to carry her back to his village, but he got tired. Resting under a shade tree, he fell asleep. When he awoke the Virgin had gone. Returning to where he had found her; there she was - back in the hollow tree. He carried her off again until he was tired, and as before fell asleep, and again she disappeared. When he saw her back in the hollow tree he decided that it was where she wanted to be. Villagers came and made a simple shrine dedicated to her, the Virgin of El Rocio. The shrine became an important place of pilrimage. It was rebuilt and enlarged to be the sparking white church that it is today. (Thanks Brian, for another of your beautiful photos!)

It is traditional that people who come for the El Rocio annual Pentecost pilgrimage do so without motorised vehicles. The roads are full of gaily decked covered carts, and splendid horse riders with the woman wearing brightly coloured gipsy costumes. There are hitching rails for the horses and wide open spaces to turn oxdrawn carts. Celebration continues for the whole El Rocio week! Be prepared to book far ahead and travel far for accomodation! Check internet sites for more history, pictures and information.

Jimena de la Frontera - the past

Andalucian towns and villages are often built on solid rocky mountains, on which it would be impossible to dig graves, so the cemetaries consist of white walls with niches, like this one at Jimena de la Frontera. They are beautifully cared for, with bright flowers and perhaps a photo. The effect is dazzling; quite different from the gloomy churchyards often found elsewhere.

The castle seen through the gates and in close up on the right can be freely explored. There are a few notices to indicate its Roman origins and Moorish development. There are wonderful views of the village from above, and over the unspoiled forests. Another good place for bird watchers.

If you want to stay for a while there are hostals and small hotels in the town, and an excellent Camp ground just outside it.