The Cave - of Cueva De La Pileta

This cave is near Benaojan, about 70 kilometers from Bahia Dorada - through wonderfully wild mountain scenery. I've wanted to explore it for years. This week I did so for the first time! There are many steep steps up to the cave entrance, and inside the cave, so people with heart or agility problems are advised not to attempt to visit it. Once inside, Tilly lamps are lit and the group follows a guide who speaks in Spanish and English.

The Cave is most famous for a large depiction of a fish - which is most unusual in cave paintings.

The cave has Paleolithic and Neolithic paintings of animal and human forms, and many abstract lines and patterns, whose meaning is still open to interpretation. Carbon dating was possible as animal fat was used in making the 'paints'. There are two small lakes, with water that was once fresh enough to drink. (Now, coins dropped into them has spoiled its purity.) Many pottery shards can also be seen in the cave.

The postcard on the left distinctly shows the 'Pregnant mare' and a goat. Some people think the lines like a comb may be some sort of moon calendar. What of those circles with dots inside?

Super station food and passing trains

This wonderful cool drink isn't wine, and it isn't a cola! It's grappa (grape juice) with ice and lemon. It was served to us on shiny black glass tables on the platform of the little Station of San Pablo near Jimena de La Frontera.
Occasional trains pass by. They stop by request only. Now you see one - now you don't!



Adventure suggestion. Go to the station and have a nice drink before taking the train to Ronda. The route is through magnificent mountain scenery that you can see no other way. The historic town of Ronda is spectacular. Spend whatever time you can spare to explore it! (More about it later.)

When you return to San Pablo station have dinner at the restaurant on this very platform! The food is of superb quality! Nieves, the chef, serves lunches too. (Closed on Mondays.)

Romeria to El Rocio

During the Moorish occupation of Spain (8th-15th Century) the statues of the Virgin Mary were hidden in attics, cellars and caves. Over the centuries their hiding places were forgotten. But occasionally they were found!

The story goes that during the 15th century in the Coto Donana area of Andalucia a man found an ancient carved wooden Virgin, hidden in a hollow tree. He decided to carry her back to his village, but he got tired. Resting under a shade tree, he fell asleep. When he awoke the Virgin had gone. Returning to where he had found her; there she was - back in the hollow tree. He carried her off again until he was tired, and as before fell asleep, and again she disappeared. When he saw her back in the hollow tree he decided that it was where she wanted to be. Villagers came and made a simple shrine dedicated to her, the Virgin of El Rocio. The shrine became an important place of pilrimage. It was rebuilt and enlarged to be the sparking white church that it is today. (Thanks Brian, for another of your beautiful photos!)

It is traditional that people who come for the El Rocio annual Pentecost pilgrimage do so without motorised vehicles. The roads are full of gaily decked covered carts, and splendid horse riders with the woman wearing brightly coloured gipsy costumes. There are hitching rails for the horses and wide open spaces to turn oxdrawn carts. Celebration continues for the whole El Rocio week! Be prepared to book far ahead and travel far for accomodation! Check internet sites for more history, pictures and information.

Roman ruins; Baleo Caudia

The Roman ruins of Baleo Claudia near Tarifa, are in a stunning position beside a long sandy beach. Before going there check opening times, which vary with the seasons; and use a map and follow signposts carefully. The car park is beside the museum.

The most important industry of Baleo Claudio was garrum; a highly prized fish paste, that was exported all over the Roman Empire! Near the beach there are many large tanks cut into the rock in which the garrum was made. Salt and herbs were pounded together with the fish.

After visiting the ruins, enjoy eating at one of the delightful beachside restaurants nearby; stroll along the sands or have a swim. This place is only about an hour from my place! Or stop over at one of the nearby camp grounds or in a hostal or hotel in Zahara.

There are beaches, and beautiful beaches!

Many Mediteranean beaches have artificially dredged sand. Those without this luxury can have more stones and shingle. The best beaches are on the Atlantic coast about an hour from my place. This rock is at Atlantera, and the long sandy beach stretches to Zahara del Tunes. However, there is more wind on the Atlantic coast! The nearby town of Tarifa capitalises on it boasting that it is the 'windsurfing capital of the world! There are kite surfing schools too!

For those who want to spend more than an afternoon in this area, accomodation of all sorts is available; hotels, hostels and camp grounds with good facilities. However, many places are only open in the 'season', not year round. Other interesting places to visit nearby include wonderful Roman ruins - Baleo Claudia. More about that later!

Jimena de la Frontera - the past

Andalucian towns and villages are often built on solid rocky mountains, on which it would be impossible to dig graves, so the cemetaries consist of white walls with niches, like this one at Jimena de la Frontera. They are beautifully cared for, with bright flowers and perhaps a photo. The effect is dazzling; quite different from the gloomy churchyards often found elsewhere.

The castle seen through the gates and in close up on the right can be freely explored. There are a few notices to indicate its Roman origins and Moorish development. There are wonderful views of the village from above, and over the unspoiled forests. Another good place for bird watchers.

If you want to stay for a while there are hostals and small hotels in the town, and an excellent Camp ground just outside it.

1.450m to the top of the Bermeja!

The summit of the Bermeja mountain behind Estepona is 1.450 meters! Although the road up to it is steep, narrow and twisting, it is possible to drive a car most of the way. On a clear day it seems as though you can 'see forever', and there are views of Morocco and the Sierra Nevada. In my lefthand picture Gibraltar is just visible in the distance. If you are lucky you might see Booted Eagles, Griffon Vultures, Sparrow hawks, and Long Eared Owls, or even an Egyptian Mongoose! You will certainly see a very rare species of pine tree, the Pinsapo, which only grows in Andalucia. It was discovered quite recently, in 1837, by a Swiss botanist Edmund Bosser. It has short blue-green needles, and its branches sweep low to the ground.

There is a Refugio, about a kilometer below the summit, where shelter, food and drink are often available. In winter a blazing wood fire is a welcome warmer! There are tables with long benches indoors, and wooden picnic tables under the trees for fine weather. Young people bring sleeping bags and sleep out on the 'deck', to see the glorious sunrise in the morning.

Don't Try This!

This walkway was built for the King to view the construction of a new dam some time ago, around the turn of the century. It has since fallen into disrepair, and in fact has now been closed to prevent accidents.

However, this video was made and shows the risks people are still willing to take.

It is in the El Chorro area, near Antequera, which is a very beautiful area to have a picnic, swim in the lake, and walk in the woods.



Further information about this is available at this site

Rain Forest Rendezvous!

Fuengirola Zoo, under an hour from my place, is the most beautiful zoo I have ever seen!
The paths wander through lush cool vegetation, with excellent views of the animals and
birds in huge enclosures with great rocks, trees and pools. The breeding programme of endangered species appears to be highly successful, judging by many babies to be seen!

Gibraltar

Gibraltar is less than an hour from my place. It is well worth a day visit. The short distance from the African continent makes it a major migratory route for birds.

There is much to see on a day visit. Take a taxi from the border for the Rock Tour. Your driver will be your guide. You will be given time to explore St Michael's Cave. There is a stage inside it, where concerts are held. It is also famous for being the site where Gibraltar Woman was found - before Neandethal Man. But her significance was not recognised at the time! The Rock was a fortress, and has miles of handmade Siege tunnels inside it! You will have time to walk down them, and learn about how they were made. In the nature reserve at the top of the Rock visitors can have close encounters with the famous apes!

Castellar - a village inside a castle!

Castellar de la Frontera is the most southerly castle in Europe, with a village hidden inside it! Drive through mysterious cork forests, and up a very steep mountain road over looking a lake! Below it there is a Venta, a roadside eating place, where you can enjoy the food of the region sitting outside in the shade. Drive a little further in springtime, where electricity posts are decorated with storks nests! All this is about an hour and a half from my place!

El Torcal

El Torcal karst rock formations. This is a great place to walk. (Degrees of difficulty are clearly marked.) See mountain goats and their kids in their natural element! There is a campground to make overnight stays. Approximately one and a half hours by car from my property.